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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 4:59 pm 
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bad kitty!
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Anybody got some background knowledge about bonding Ti6Al4V to composites?

I had planned to use Hysol 9466 on a bead blasted Ti surface, cleaned with acetone.
Bond gap around 0.7mm.
Does this make sense, or are there better solutions out there?


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 6:47 pm 
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friendly kitty

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Rivets


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 6:51 pm 
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bad kitty!
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Are you serious or kidding?


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 7:16 pm 
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friendly kitty

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Magura wrote:
Are you serious or kidding?


Magura :)


Can I be both serious AND kidding?
Rivets would 'fasten' them together. Of course it's not technically 'bonded'. And likely won't meet any of your strength or structural requirements.

I just know that I hate bonding to Ti. I would try to promote a covalent bond by etching the substrate and picking an adhesive that isn't intended for steel ;). The inevitable surface oxides tend to be very hard to form a mechanical bond to (I believe this is why you are bead blasting, to promote a mechanical bond?)


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 7:21 pm 
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bad kitty!
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Yes, that's why I bead blasted. At least I have like twice the surface then.

Which adhesive would you suggest instead of the 9466?
Etching Ti? As in H2So4 and loads of current?


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 7:43 pm 
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friendly kitty

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Pyro Duct 597 or Masterbond EP45HTAN

http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi. ... 253228.pdf

It seems that if you bond soon after grit-blasting (rather than bead blasting, not sure if you use the terms interchangeably, but they aren't always interchangeable), it will remove that oxide layer, removing the need for any chemical etching. :) Though, if you wanted to chemically etch... you would use a compound that would selectively eat only part of the alloy, where your adhesive will bond to the remaining part. I imagine H2SO4 would instead dissolve EVERYTHING. I might be using ambiguous language here, that's why I'm describing it in more detail. Hope it helps.

As a sidenote: I would flush with lab-grade IPA rather than Acetone, also, as it flashes off a bit cleaner in my experience. Unless your chosen adhesive likes to have acetone as a primer.


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 9:36 pm 
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bad kitty!
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I indeed used bead blasting, but can go for grit blasting just the same.
IPA for cleaning it is then.
Getting around without etching, is sure making things easier, so I'll give it a shot.

This is for bonding the axle bushings into the rear drops of the composite DJ frame.
I have loads of bond area there, so it ought not to be an issue

Thanks.

Magura :)

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