NOTE: This tool will only work with the TALAS I (first generation). It will not work with the TALAS II. I have an idea on how to build a TALAS II IFP tool, but I don't have a TALAS II to test it against. The TALAS III does not need an IFP tool for servicing the air spring.
TALAS I (first generation) example:
TALAS II examples:
TALAS III examples:
While servicing my first Fox TALAS I (first generation TALAS) fork, I realized I needed a Fox IFP Charging Tool to deflate and re-inflate the IFP chamber. I found the tool online for around $100. That seemed a little expensive and I wanted to find a DIY alternative if possible.
There were several forum posts stating a standard ball inflation needle would work fine to deflate the IFP chamber. And, with the help of a friend, it could be held in place while re-inflating the IFP chamber.
I decided to go a step further and find a way to thread the ball inflation needle into the IFP port. After some garage testing, I figured out the port was a standard 8-32 thread. I bought some supplies and started trying to build my own version of the tool. Here's the result...
You can click on any image to view full-sized.
A YouTube video detailing the construction process and tool usage is located at the bottom of this post.
. #8-32 x 3/8" set screw . Ball inflation needle . Epoxy
. #8-32 nut . #8x1/4" x 1" spacer
. Fine grit sandpaper (400-600 grit) . Drill press . Drill press vice . Clamp/bolts (to secure the vice to the drill press platform) . 5/64" drill bit . 3/32" drill bit . Dremel with cut-off wheel . Ruler (mm increments)
. Pliers . Safety gloves . Eye protection
DRILLING THE 5/64" HOLE
We need to drill a 5/64" hole through the axis of the set screw.
Insert the 5/64" drill bit (upside down) into the drill press chuck and hand tighten.
Lower the drill bit into the vice, center the vice around the bit, and tighten the vice onto the drill bit.
Secure the drill press vice to the drill press platform.
Loosen the chuck and slowly raise it off of the drill bit. Don't let the chuck fly up off of the bit as it will knock into the drill press and move itself out of alignment.
Insert the set screw into the drill chuck and gently tighten. If you over tighten the chuck it will damage the set screw threads. If it's not tight enough the set screw will spin around during the drilling process and also ruin the threads.
Turn on the drill and slowly lower the set screw onto the drill bit. Take care not to hog the bit (don't force the set screw onto the bit). Take your time and let the tool do the work for you. Continue drilling until the bit passes completely through the set screw.
When done, it should look like this.
DRILLING THE 3/32" HOLE
Now we will drill a 3/32" hole half-way down the axis of the set screw.
Mount the 3/32" drill bit into the vice using the same method.
Identify the top of the set screw. It will be the non-tapered side (most likely with a hex key fitting). This will be the side we drill into with the 3/32" bit.
Mount the set screw into the drill press (with the "top" side down) and drill about half way through the set screw. This 3/32" hole makes it a bit easier to press-fit the inflation needle into the set screw and also provides a small pocket for the epoxy.
Here is what the set screw looks like when done.
PREPARING THE INFLATION NEEDLE
Using a Dremel (or similar) with a small cut-off wheel, remove the tip of the inflation needle right at the edge of the side port.
Clean off the tip area (I used a small brass brush and some 600 grit sandpaper).
ASSEMBLY
Place the nut about half way up on the set screw.
Mix a small amount of epoxy and place it on the inflation needle just below the notch (side port).
Place the set screw onto the inflation needle (tapered side outward).
Place the spacer onto the end of the set screw.
Place the assembly into a vice (the drill press vice is fine for this), slowly tighten the vice and press fit the needle into the set screw.
You want about 6mm of the inflation needle to protrude from the end of the set screw. Take it out often and measure using a ruler or caliper.
When done, use a cotton swab to remove any excess epoxy from the top of the set screw.
Remove the nut and sit your IFP tool off to the side to dry (follow the epoxy manufacturer's curing time).
USING THE IFP TOOL - DEFLATING THE IFP CHAMBER
WARNING: When deflating the IFP chamber, suspension fluid will come out. It would be very wise to wear eye protection and cover the tool with a towel to prevent the suspension fluid from spraying you in the face. I am currently servicing this fork and I put it back together with a minimal amount of suspension fluid in the IFP chamber for this demonstration.
Insert the IFP tool into the IFP port and gently tighten until you hear the air escaping.
Use a small screwdriver to release the air from the main TALAS chamber. This will help force out any air remaining in the IFP chamber.
Remove the tool when done.
USING THE IFP TOOL - INFLATING THE IFP CHAMBER
Gently tighten the IFP tool into the IFP port.
Attach your high pressure pump to the IFP tool.
Inflate the IFP chamber to 150psi (as per Fox's service guide).
NOTE: This version of the IFP tool does not have a valve core like the official Fox IFP Tool. If you disconnect the pump from the DIY tool, all of the air in the IFP chamber will escape. Do not disconnect the pump from the tool after pressurizing the IFP chamber.
Remove the tool by spinning the pump (attached to the tool) until the IFP tool is free from the IFP port.
VIDEO SUPPLEMENT
00:14 - Introduction 00:46 - Drilling the 5/64" hole 02:23 - Drilling the 3/32" hole 03:38 - Preparing the inflator needle 05:18 - Assembly 07:53 - Using the IFP tool - Deflating the TALAS IFP chamber 08:48 - Using the IFP tool - Inflating the TALAS IFP chamber
It seems to work great and cost very little for the actual IFP tool materials. Don't hesitate to let me know if you have any questions. And, if you build your own version of the tool (or an improved version) please post up some pics! Thanks!
That's a good idea. You don't have to drill the hole that tight a fit though. You get stronger adhesion, if you leave like 0.2mm for the adhesive. When you leave no room for the adhesive, it does not work all that well.
You know that friends do not let friends ride Talas, right?;)
Just curious, why?
Technically they seem pretty fine. Only thing I seem to dislike about the Talas, and that goes for Fox in general, would be the service intervals, well that, and their lack of spares availability around here.
Technically they seem pretty fine. Only thing I seem to dislike about the Talas, and that goes for Fox in general, would be the service intervals, well that, and their lack of spares availability around here. Magura
Just a running anecdote at places like pinkbike. But to me it looks mighty complicated, it is notorious for needing frequent service and there are tons of stories about its stiction circulating on the interboobz. I have to confess though that I have never owned one so I just go with the anecdotes.
Yeah, I was contacted by someone last night and they included some detailed photos of the TALAS II top cap. It appears to be much deeper than my TALAS I. He was able to get it inserted enough to depressurize the IFP chamber. But, he's concerned (and rightly so, I believe) about the ability to spin the entire assembly out once the chamber has been re-pressurized.
Would you mind taking a couple of photos and measuring the distance from the bottom of the TALAS top cap on your TALAS II to the top lip of the cap? I'm interested in looking for an "extended" inflation needle that might do the trick.
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ain't sure if it'll work on the Talas II system which is deeper in than the Talas I.