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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 2:03 am 
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big hucker
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If you directly linked to this thread, please visit our Fox Factory Service Information - Main Index for additional resources.


Triad RPL Rebuild

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The Triad and RPL shocks are very similar, so the general service instructions will be basically the same. The basic differences between the two shocks are the Specialized name, and the size. Triad is the name of the shock that we supply to Specialized bicycles only. All other shocks of this type/specification are designated "RPL".

Note: Some photos shown on this page may not actually be of this shock model. We reserve the option to preserve system bandwidth by substituting generic pictures whenever it's possible and appropriate.

Disassembly

1. Prepare your work area. Lay out a clean shop towel upon which to stage and organize your parts assemblies.

2. Wear your safety glasses (always protect your eyes), and use rubber gloves if so desired.

3. Remove the mounting hardware, and clean the exterior of the shock before starting disassembly. This is a good time to record the eye-to-eye length of the shock and its travel. This information will aid you with determining the IFP setting and for ordering replacement parts.

4. Remove the air valve cap and release all air pressure from the main air chamber's Schrader valve.

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Warning! FOX air shocks contain high air pressures. Before continuing this service procedure, make sure the shock is not "stuck-down". Always wear eye protection when servicing any FOX product.

5. Remove the travel indicator O-ring.

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6. Placing the eyelet assembly into a soft-jaw vice, remove air sleeve from the damper by turning the air sleeve counter-clockwise.

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7. Clean the inside area of the damper, and also clean the air sleeve at this time.

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8. Remove bearing housing seal with plastic pick and also remove white bearings.

Note: Do not scratch the seal gland.

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9. Remove the IFP filler plastic ball from the damper body with a sharp metal pick.

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10. With a 5/32" (4 mm) hex key wrench, slowly remove the set screw. Remove the rubber pellet from the damper body.

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11. Slowly remove the bearing housing bleed screw (pressure may still be in the shock, even if you have already released it from the nitrogen filler port). Also, be sure to remove the sealing ball; set these two items aside.

Warning! Be careful; wear safety glasses.

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12. Unthread the bearing housing from the damper body with a 3/4" open-end wrench or crows-foot (counter-clockwise). Make sure the torque force is not applied onto the bleed screw hole, or thread damage may result.

Tech Tip: The shock's serial number is located on top of the bearing housing.

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13. Remove the bearing housing from the damper body over an oil drain pan.

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14. Clean and inspect the body and remove the IFP. Hold a [url=../shop_towel_spec.pdf]shop towel[/url] over the open end of the shock body. Using an air nozzle, blow air into filler port at the eyelet end. This will blow the IFP out of the body and into your hand. Clean the IFP and install new seals as necessary. Lube the IFP, seal with grease, and set aside.

15. Place the eyelet in soft jaw vise and unthread the Lock out valve screw PN 018-01-015 with a 1/16” hex key (old style RC, RL).

Note: On the newer versions of this shock (Triad and RPL), you can pull out the valve and adjuster rod as an assembled piece. Grip the adjuster rod in a small V block soft jaw vise and unthread the screw (PN 018-01-015).

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16. Carefully remove the Lock Out Valve PN 043-10-002 and set it aside with its screw.

17. If you suspect an issue with the shim stack or wish to change the valving, lay all the parts out in assembly order on a clean shop towel. For more detail on the valving, see PN 807-06-117 and PN 816-72-942, for the damper bubble drawing 08 Triad 7.00x1.600.

18. Using your FOX Shox custom Piston socket tool PN 398-00-227, unthread the damper piston.

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19. Remove the bearing housing and the bottom-out O-ring and washer.

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20. Clean the bearing housing. Inspect and replace the seals in the housing, if necessary. Be sure to grease the O-ring inside diameter of the bearing housing body threads, and the shaft seal.

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21. Place the damper shaft into the shaft clamps, up close to the eyelet.

Tech Tip: The damper shaft is made of aluminum, so be very careful when using the shaft clamps. Do not allow the shaft to spin as you unthread the eyelet. Do not use excessive force on the vise or you may damage the aluminum shaft.

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22. Remove the eyelet with a ½-inch bar for increased leverage, turning counter-clockwise.

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23. The damper shaft has been put together at the factory with the use of red Loctite. If excessive force is required to remove the damper shaft, use a heat source to soften the Loctite.

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24. The inner adjuster rod has a very small steel ball on top of it. This little ball sits in a drilled pocket in the inner adjuster rod. Pull the ball out and place it in a secure spot.

Tech Tip: Pencil magnets work great for extracting little parts.

25. If you suspect the O-ring inside of the damper shaft has failed and wish to replace it with a new one, do not scratch the seal gland surfaces as you pull the original O-ring out. Grease the new O-ring and install it.

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26. The photo below shows the top of the adjuster rod (outer and inner). Note the small O-ring inside the outer adjuster rod; be very careful when removing this O-ring. Lube and install a new O-ring as required.

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27. Remove the set screw on the side of the eyelet first and set aside.

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28. Remove the set screw in the blue lever.

29. Remove the blue compression lever and adjuster cam parts. Clean, inspect and re-grease these as necessary.

    1. Review drawing PN 808-17-025 for more detail about these parts for the eyelet parts


Assembly


1. Insert the blue compression lever/rebound adjuster assembly into the eyelet hole.

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2. Place a single drop of blue Loctite onto the long set screw that holds the assembly in place. Gently tighten it up until resistance is felt, then back the screw off ½ turn. If you do not back it out, the set screw will pinch the adjuster shaft and it will not freely turn.

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3. Install the rebound ball spring and set screw. Place a single drop of Loctite onto the set screw and thread it in until the top of the screw is flush with the outside surface. This will give the rebound knob a proper feel. Turn the rebound knob; test and adjust as needed.

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4. Double check the lever and knob for movement. You can view the action by peeking into the damper shaft threaded hole.

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5. Prepare the compression and rebound rods. Make sure they are clean, and that the O-rings have been inspected and replaced if necessary. Be sure the small steel ball is lubricated and in position at the top end of the inner rod.

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6. Inspect and grease the O-ring in the damper shaft.

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7. Grease the adjuster rod end without the ball. With a gentle push and wiggle motion, insert it into the damper shaft gently. NEVER jam the adjuster rod into the shaft, or damage will be the result.

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8. Place two drops of red Loctite onto the outside diameter threads on the damper shaft. Keep the Loctite below the non-threaded portion.

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9. Pull the adjuster rod out of the damper shaft about 12 mm. Engage the slot of the outer adjuster rod to the adjuster mechanism in the eyelet housing.

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10. Thread the shaft in by hand as far as possible. Test the compression lever (turn the lever back and forth). Place your index finger on the adjuster rod at the end of the damper shaft. You should feel the adjuster move up and down.

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11. Place the damper shaft into the shaft clamps, and using the FOX Racing Shox ½-inch bar and torque wrench tip tool (FOX P/N 398-00-031-A), torque the eyelet to 110 in-lbs. (7.58 N-m).

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12. Install the bottom-out washer and bottom-out O-ring onto the damper shaft.

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13. Inspect and replace, if necessary, the seals in the bearing housing, the body thread inside diameter O-ring, and the shaft seal. Lubricate before sliding onto the damper shaft.

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14. Slide the bearing housing onto the damper shaft. Gently push and wiggle as you slide the damper shaft past the bearing housing seal.

15. Place the Top out plate onto the shaft and screw the damper piston assembly onto the damper shaft. Torque the piston assembly to 75 inch pounds.

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16. Install the lock out plate, and place a single drop of blue Loctite onto the screw thread. Tighten the screw into the adjuster rod with the plate attached. Grease the rod tip, and slide the rod into the middle of the rebound adjuster shaft.

Note: On the newer versions of this shock (Triad and RPL), grip the adjuster rod in a small V block soft jaw vise, and thread the screw PN 018-01-015 with lock out plate into the adjuster rod.

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17. Use the 2007 or 2008 Rear Shock Cheat Sheet for determining the IFP setting for your shock. Adjust the calipers to this setting.

18. Set the IFP according to the shock's IFP specification (an IFP setting tool, if available, can be handy in this step).

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19. Place the damper body into a soft-jaw vise and fill the body to the top with 10 wt. FOX Suspension Fluid.

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20. Push the bearing housing all the way down to the topout plate on the back side of the damper piston.

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21. Push the bearing housing downward into the oil, and wiggle it back and forth as you thread the bearing housing onto the body threads. This will help oil pass around the damper piston as it lowers into the damper body. As you thread the bearing housing onto the body, you will see oil flow out of the bleed port on top of the bearing housing; this is normal. If oil does not come out, you should unthread the bearing housing, top off the body with oil, and try again.

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22. Drop the steel ball into the bleed port and thread in the set screw. Tighten to 15 in-lbs (1.03 N-m).

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23. Install a new rubber pellet into the damper body. Using nitrogen, pressurize to 400 psi and torque the filler screw to 14 in-lbs. (0.97 N-m).

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24. Press in a new plastic ball by using a soft-jaw vise.

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25. Clean the reservoir with isopropyl alcohol, and replace the decal if necessary.

26. Perform the Air Sleeve Maintenance procedure, if necessary. Otherwise, install the air sleeve and travel indicator O-ring.

27. Return the shock back to your now-happy customer. Smile! :-]

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 2:05 am 
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revolting kitty
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That looks complicated.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 2:08 am 
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pussy
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Complicated like everything Fox...


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 2:11 am 
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big hucker
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Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2013 7:32 pm
Posts: 3086
Location: Dallas, TX
I'm not gonna disagree. However, if you don't want to send it off and pay $$$ there aren't many other options. And, now we're the only one on the interwebz that has a full rebuild guide for these Fox products. :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 3:57 am 
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revolting kitty
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I was just joking - throwback to my recent affinity for Suntour. I haven't taken a ride on their float competitor - the Axiom, but I very much like their cartridge technology. I really appreciate you spending your time putting this together.


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