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 Post subject: Fox VAN R Rebuild
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 2:56 pm 
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big hucker
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Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2013 7:32 pm
Posts: 3086
Location: Dallas, TX
If you directly linked to this thread, please visit our Fox Factory Service Information - Main Index for additional resources.



VAN R Rebuild


Disassembly

1. Prepare the work area. Lay out clean shop towel to store and organize the shock's parts on.

2. Put on your safety glasses and use rubber gloves if desired.

3. Remove mounting hardware before disassembly. Record the shock's eye-to-eye length and total travel. This information will assist you in determining the IFP setting and for ordering replacement parts.

4. Remove the IFP filler plastic ball with sharp metal pick.

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Warning! FOX air shocks contain high air pressures. Always wear eye protection when servicing any FOX product.

5. Remove the nitrogen filler set screw using a 5/32 (4mm) hex key.

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6. Remove the nitrogen filler rubber plug with metal dental pick

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7. Push in the IFP cap about 5mm.

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8. Remove the wire ring with a dental pick.

Tech Tip: Slip pick under the bottom side of ring and pull up. Be careful not to scratch the inside diameter of the reservoir body.

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9. Remove the reservoir cap with needlenose pliers. As you pull the cap up, use rocking motion to help guide the o-ring past the wire ring groove.

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10. Remove the bearing housing with a 1" open end wrench or 1" crows foot.

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11. Pour the oil into a drain pan.

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12. Place the shock body into shaft clamps and mount into a soft jaw vise. Tech Tip: Stuff shop towel into the body to keep oil from dripping onto your shoes.

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13. Using a propane torch, lightly heat up the reservoir eyelet (piggyback). This will soften the red Loctite. Go easy on the heat as the part should be just uncomfortable to the touch; do not melt the decals!

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14. Unthread (counterclockwise) the reservoir eyelet with a ½ bar.

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15. Clean the Loctite out of the threads on the reservoir eyelet and body.

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16. Remove the body o-ring at the bottom of the reservoir eyelet threads with a plastic dental pick.

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17. Heat up the reservoir decal just enough to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to remove the decal.

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18. Place the reservoir into the shaft clamps and place onto the soft jaw vise.

Note: Do not overtighten the vise or damage might result.

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19. Remove the reservoir eyelet from the reservoir body with the ½ bar.

Note: The reservoir may also have Loctite on the threads. To help with removal, use the propane torch to soften the Loctite.

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20. Remove the reservoir from the vise and pour out any remaining oil into an oil pan.

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21. Remove the IFP from the reservoir by pushing it out with your finger or the handle end of a screwdriver.

Note: The IFP will only come out through the non-threaded (OD) side of the reservoir.

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22. Place the shaft eyelet end into a soft-jaw vise and remove the piston bolt with a 3/8 socket wrench. Keep these parts together and put aside.

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23. Remove the bearing housing and bottom-out pad.

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24. Place the damper shaft into shaft clamps, then tighten the shaft clamps in a vise. Do not overtighten the vise or damage might result.

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25. Heat up the shaft eyelet were it meets the damper shaft to soften the Loctite. Remember to only heat up just enough so that it is warm to the touch.

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26. Remove the shaft-end eyelet with a ½ bar.

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27. Remove Loctite from outside diameter (OD) of the shaft threads and inside diameter (ID) of the eyelet threads.

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28. Remove the rebound adjuster rod from the shaft and clean up any remaining Loctite debris from ID of shaft and rebound rod.

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29. Remove o-ring from ID gland of shaft eyelet threads (located at bottom).

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30. Remove the rebound knob from the eyelet by unthreading them counterclockwise. Keep an eye out for the detent ball and detent spring, then set these parts aside.

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31. Remove the bearing housing dust wiper with a dental pick. In most cases this action will damage the dust wiper seal, so be sure to replace them.

Note: Do not scratch the dust wiper gland.

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32. Remove from bearing housing damper shaft O-ring

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33. Remove the o-ring from the white plastic IFP with a plastic o-ring pick.

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34. Remove the o-ring from the body eyelet (piggyback).

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35. Remove the shaft from clamps and slide off the bearing housing. Clean and replace the bearing housing seal with new a one.

36. The VAN R shock is now apart. This is a good time to clean all the parts and to make sure that the Loctite is remove from all threads. Air dry or wipe them off with a shop towel.

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37. Open your seal kit and get your grease out.

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38. Grease the o-ring for rebound rod/damper shaft.

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39. Slide the rebound rod needle point first into the damper shaft OD threaded end.

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40. Prepare the rebound knob, detent ball and detent spring and apply grease to detent parts.

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41. Install the rebound knob by threading it clockwise into the rebound adjuster threads on the side of the shaft eyelet. Make sure the ball and spring follow the knob into the bore.

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42. Apply red Loctite (two drops or, in this case, stick paste) onto the OD threads of the damper shaft.

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43. Place the damper shaft into the shaft clamps and place into a soft-jaw vise. Using your eyelet torque tool, torque the eyelet to shaft 110 in-lbs. (12.43 N-m) Remove the assembly from vise.

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44. Install the bottom-out bumper onto the damper shaft.

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45. Rebuild the bearing housing with a new o-ring and dust wiper. Lightly grease the seals before you install them into the bearing housing.

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46. Lightly grease end of damper shaft and slide bearing housing (side with yellow dust wiper seal) onto the damper shaft with a gentle wiggle motion.

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47. Prepare your damper piston and valving assemblies for installation.

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48. Install the damper piston assembly onto damper shaft with a 3/8" socket wrench and torque to 75 in-lbs. (8.47 N-m)

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49. Lightly grease and install the o-rings back into the reservoir eyelet.

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50. Lightly grease and install the o-ring onto the white plastic IFP.

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51. Place two drops of blue Loctite (or stick application) onto the threads of the reservoir body.

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52. Thread the reservoir body into reservoir threads on the reservoir eyelet (piggyback).

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53. Place two drops of blue Loctite (or stick application) onto the threads of the damper body.

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54. Thread the damper body into reservoir eyelet. Hand tight is good for now.

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55. Place the reservoir into shaft clamps/soft-jaw vise and using ½ bar torque tool, torque the eyelet to the reservoir to 30 ft-lbs. ( 360 in-lbs. / 40.67 N-m)

Note: Do not overtighten the soft-jaw vise onto the reservoir or damage may result.

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56. Wrap the body with a shop towel.

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57. Pour 10wt. FOX Suspension Fluid into the body. Note that the oil will flow through the crossover port at the bottom of the eyelet and into the reservoir. This is normal and desired. The oil will also self-level slowly between the two oil chambers (i.e., reservoir and damper body).

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58. Top off the oil in the reservoir before inserting the IFP.

59. With cupped side of the piston up, slowly push the IFP into the reservoir body. Before the IFP o-ring enters the reservoir body, you should see a small amount of oil flow out. This is an essential part of the filling process; you do not want to trap any air under the IFP.

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60. Push the IFP into the reservoir about .25" (6mm). Notice the IFP cup is facing up.

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61. Place reservoir eyelet into a soft-jaw vise and wrap the body with a shop towel to catch the oil in the final bleeding process.

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62. Top off the body with suspension oil.

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63. Push the bearing housing all the way down until it touches the piston stop plate. Insert the piston and bearing housing assembly into the suspension oil in the damper body. Thread in the bearing housing all the way down to two approximate of two threads below the milled bleed channel in the side of the bearing housing.

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64. Using an IFP setting tool, push the white plastic IFP all the way down to the bottom of the reservoir—aprox 1.560" (39.5mm) deep. This will purge the suspension fluid and any small air bubbles out through the milled bleed channel in the bearing housing.

Tech Tip: Wiggle the bearing housing as you push the IFP. This will help oil move around the damper piston glide ring and makes it a little easier to purge oil out through the bleed channel.

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65. Torque the bearing housing with a 1" crows foot wrench to 35 ft-lbs. (420 in-lbs./47.45 N-m)

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66. Check the final IFP height. It should be within 1.480" - 1.330". (Factory fill IFP height is 1.380")

67. Inspect the reservoir end cap and grease and/or replace o-ring as needed.

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68. Install the reservoir end cap with filler cap feature towards the outside of the reservoir body. Push it into the reservoir past the wire ring groove, then install the wire ring.

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69. Grip filler cap with needlenose pliers and pull up to secure it in place to the wire ring.

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70. Grease and install the new rubber filler plug and thread in the set screw with a 5/32" hex key wrench.

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71. Set your nitrogen regulator to 300 PSI.

72. Insert needle and fill reservoir with nitrogen. Torque filler screw to 14 in-lbs. (1.58 N-m)

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73. Check the VAN R shock rebuild with a shock hand dyno. Double check the following: Rebound check: Slow to fast range of rebound damping. The should feel smooth and with no air emulsion noise.

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Full shaft travel: Slowly push the damper shaft eyelet all the way until it smashes the rubber bottom-out pad against the top of the bearing housing. You should feel the rubber pad squish under the hand dyno pressure.

If you do not get full stroke, you will need repeat steps 58 to 66.

75. Press plastic ball into set screw.

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76. Install a new reservoir decal.

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77. Install spring and mounting hardware as required.

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78. Return the shock back to your now-happy customer. Smile.:-]

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 Post subject: Re: Fox VAN R Rebuild
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 5:57 pm 
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ridin' dirty kitty!
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Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2013 6:00 pm
Posts: 921
when i end up getting a fs bike, im gonna send my shit to you for repairs/rebuilds :)

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 Post subject: Re: Fox VAN R Rebuild
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 10:01 pm 
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big hucker
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Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2013 7:32 pm
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Location: Dallas, TX
big terry wrote:
when i end up getting a fs bike, im gonna send my shit to you for repairs/rebuilds :)

I think you misunderstand. These are the official Fox guides, not mine. I'm just converting the format and re-posting them here. :D

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 Post subject: Re: Fox VAN R Rebuild
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 10:04 pm 
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ridin' dirty kitty!
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Oh ok, haha I was thinking damn, marp has one hell of a garage shop going on!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

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 Post subject: Re: Fox VAN R Rebuild
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 11:34 am 
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lurkin' kitty

Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2018 11:32 am
Posts: 1
Thank you for sharing ! The photos are not visible, do you have them?


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