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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 4:15 pm 
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pussy
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1st gen Nobby Nic 2.25 was a well known offender, but at least Schwalbe never claimed it was tubeless ready.

This Spesh Purgatory Control, OTOH, is 2Bliss ready. Granted, it has a couple hundreds miles on it, but it was like this from the start.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 4:28 pm 
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big hucker
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That looks scary. I had one 2Bliss tire I was mounting and I had my compressor set too high. When I seated the tire on the rim it sounded like something was ripping throughout the tire. :shock:

When I added sealant, it weeped like that and I could never get it to stay inflated. :(

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 4:35 pm 
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yappin' kitty
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^ Feel your pain. Got the same results from Conti's RK performance (made in India), and Schwalbe's Ra-ra performance.
When new, a cheap solution* lives at the nearest Wallyworld or crafts store.

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*see DIY tires thread


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 5:12 pm 
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pussy
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I tried the rubber cement route with the NNs without much success. The Purgatory is on its way out anyway, but it sucks to see fairly expensive tires fail like that.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 7:30 am 
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lil' hucker

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So far, I've avoided any of these pitfalls by not succumbing to the desire to convert my tires to tubeless.
Instead, I run Stan's in my tubes.
I get the 'Sunlite' brand of presta valve tubes that are distributed via Kenda. They feature a flat surface on the valve stem so you can remove the entire valve stem apparatus, and then re-screw it back in. Makes it easy...one of those syringes that you get with Stan's kits, fits perfectly into the open valve. I inject 2-3 syringes worth of Stan's into a mtb tube, and just one in a road tube.

Then, all I have to do is rescrew the valve stem part back in, tighten it , and inflate the tube to whatever pressure I want. Usually I run a bit higher than most mtb riders on account of all the pavement I cover...about 28-30 psi in the front tire, 30-38 psi in the rear tire.

This works will for most puncture issues. Goat heads are no longer a problem.

Of course, the Stan's dries up in the tubes, too, so periodically I have to replace a tube with a new one and fresh Stan's. The Sunlite tubes are inexpensive compared to Conti tubes, which also have the same feature in presta tubes. I replace them every 4 months.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 2:48 pm 
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friendly kitty

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I can usually run a Slime 29'er tube for about 2 years before it's no longer functional... about $8 or 9 on sale at a local REI Co Op.

There used to be a thread by Dr. Wadester , making a combined solution of slime with it's big junk particles, and latex mold forming rubber from Michaels Craft store, a brew if you will, in the 29'er section of EB... Dr Wadesters Secret Sauce is I think what it was called, if you want to go hunt it down... AZ has some pretty tough conditions for sealant to have to meet, with all the heat and cactus spines... makes goat heads look down right pussy for punctures.

A word of advice, if you do flat running sealant and have to install a tube, run your fingers around inside the tire completely and remove any intruding spines inside the tire surface, they will flat your tube as soon as you install it with another puncture.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 4:55 pm 
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friendly kitty
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My experiences have been great ever since Ray turned me on to putting Stan's in tubes. Even on a couple older bikes with schrader valves that had a punctures or slow leaks. The injector works on both types of valves. I bought a quart of Stan's a few years ago but never went tubeless, now I've done 8 tubes on 4 bikes. So nice not to have to pull the tube and dunk in water looking for the leak, just add Stan's, pump, and spin!

*Edit: I'm even thinking about pre-filling a spare tube or two with a syringe full of Stan's.


Last edited by Wedge on Mon Feb 23, 2015 5:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 5:05 pm 
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grumpeh kitty!
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RandyBoy wrote:
There used to be a thread by Dr. Wadester , making a combined solution of slime with it's big junk particles, and latex mold forming rubber from Michaels Craft store, a brew if you will, in the 29'er section of EB... Dr Wadesters Secret Sauce is I think what it was called, if you want to go hunt it down... AZ has some pretty tough conditions for sealant to have to meet, with all the heat and cactus spines... makes goat heads look down right pussy for punctures.


It's in the "29er Components" forum and the (huge) thread is "Best tubeless brew?" In it's later stages a few people really got into the pure "open source" design which substitutes stuff like propylene glycol, ammonia and xanthan gum and various home-sourced "chunkulators" for name-brand components of the secret sauce.

There is a similar thread here and it's much more compact.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 5:21 pm 
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grumpeh kitty!
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Here's a video on how to add slime to presta tubes:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 5:35 pm 
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friendly kitty
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^^ Sweet! Thanks for posting that, RW!


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:42 pm 
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timid kitty
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Sti wrote:
Image


Any chance you're using some home-brew sealant with Slime mixed in? I see a tint of green. I ran 50/50 mixture of Stan's and Slime ATV for a while, and it did the same thing to the tires I used (mostly Maxxis EXO).

I gave up on Stan's/Slime mixture because of this sidewall seepage and messy residue.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 10:56 pm 
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yappin' kitty
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Katz, That's scary - interesting. I've never had an EXO tire give me any problems. Curious.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 12:03 am 
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timid kitty
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Flyin_W wrote:
Katz, That's scary - interesting. I've never had an EXO tire give me any problems. Curious.

...sent by dixie cup/string


I set Minion DHF 2.5, HR2 2.4, and Ardent 2.4 (all EXO) tubeless with Stan's/Slime mixture. The sealant seeped through on all those tires, though not to the extent shown in Sti's pics. The same result on the tires on my fat bike (On-one floaters).

Never really had problem sealing punctures or anything. Just looked messy with greasy/wet spots with green-ish dots. I'm still running the same Ardent with Orange Seal.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 1:55 am 
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pussy
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I use homebrew - see the article that RandomWalk linked in his post above..

Most TLR tires leak a bit, sealant is expected to seal their porous sidewalls, but only a few quite like that Purgatory or the dreaded NN.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 2:03 am 
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lil' hucker
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Sti wrote:
Most TLR tires leak a bit, sealant is expected to seal their porous sidewalls, but only a few quite like that Purgatory or the dreaded NN.


This makes sense, cause I believe the difference in UST and TLR is that TLR has the fancy bead only, but UST has the fancy bead and the sealed up sidewalls.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 4:22 pm 
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friendly kitty
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To be UST certified, the tire must hold air and operate without any sealant (like a car tire) so they are thicker like you mentioned.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 4:29 pm 
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grumpeh kitty!
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I've set up WTB Exiwolfs and Ardent EXO tubeless with a Dr. Wadester secret sauce (1:ATV slime, 2:RV antifreeze, and 1:latex mold builder), and have seen droplets of green ooze, but nothing like in the pics Sti posted.

It's interesting that the seepage I see is dark green but the mix going in is very pale green. So some component of the Slime is what is leaking out. The RV AF is pink and the mold builder is white.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 4:34 pm 
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yappin' kitty
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Hmmmm....
Now wondering if this is more a result of the homebrew. (Been using it since October w/o issue, yet since new those tires were coated with Elmer's.)
Like Katz using Orange Seal, I never had any issues with EXO tires and Stan's, yet the cheap Schwalbe's and Conti's were a nightmare.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 5:06 pm 
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grumpeh kitty!
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I've read where people have had success using diluted Shoe Goo to coat the inner sidewalls. I think the solvent used to dilute it is toluene.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 3:39 am 
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yappin' kitty
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Long Term Stan's build-up.

Image

Latex has solidified, remaining liquid would not seal anything. Meanwhile the 3 mo. old homebrew looked fine.

...sent by dixie cup/string


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 2:05 pm 
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pussy
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Is that a prop from an Aliens movie? :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 5:02 pm 
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lil' hucker

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That pic from FW is why I just "Stanicize' tubes and put them in tires. When the Stan's dries, I just change tubes.
I get the cheap presta tubes branded 'Sunlite' and sold through Kenda.

They have a flat surface on the presta stem where you can use a wrench or needlenose pliers to remove the valve core, and a Stan's syringe does fit perfectly into the Presta opening.
2-3 syringes of Stan's does the trick, depending on the size of the tire, and 1 syringe is fine for a road tire.

Another benefit with Stanicized tubes is that unlike untreated tubes, they tend to hold the air you pump in them a lonnng time.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 7:56 pm 
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yappin' kitty
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Sti wrote:
Is that a prop from an Aliens movie? :lol:

Probably so :lol:
Yes, apparently 16 oz. of dried latex = Alien cum.
It's an Ardent from a 2nd set of wheels for my FS that's seen very little use, yet has had 2 oz. of Stan's added to it every 3 months for 2 years.
Here's it Alien cousin, Gato.

Image

Unlike my past show & tells, neither had any gigundo Stan's Boogers.

Ray, my local go-to ride was a trail system cut through some open wildland fields full of blackberry bushes, and brairs. I could not keep from flatting, had a few dangerous after work h-a-b's on a very busy road. Went tubeless, problem solved except whenever I'd change a tire would be so loaded with thorns I'd lose count. [Not sure that slime/stan's filled tubes would work.]

My belief is that marpilli's homebrew will not evaporate, or separate, and require far less refills.
I'll be certain to update my Alien experiences here. :geek:


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 10:59 pm 
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pussy
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I can present my collection of homebrew boogers. :)


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