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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 2:31 pm 
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big hucker
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Location: Dallas, TX
Here's some detail on a weather resistant in-line switch I built to use with a DIY helmet light.

Parts:
Judco switch (557PB-ND): http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... ND/1886947
Judco rubber switch boot (513PB-ND): http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... B-ND/63952
Hammond flanged project box (1551NFLBK): http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... ND/2094795
Kaidomain 8x7135 V2 LED Driver (3040mA): http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S020073

Drilled out the required holes in the project box.

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Thread the wires through the holes, solder up the connections.

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Coat the solder points with liquid electrical tape. The strain reliefs are made out of LED holders and heat shrink tubing.

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Gently pack everything in there. It was a tight fit.

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Close it up.

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I used a couple of velcro cable ties threaded through the flanges.

Image

I'll insert a link to the helmet light as soon as I post up the thread.

Let me know if you have any questions.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 2:59 pm 
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bad kitty!
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I salute your ingenuity, but I sooo much feel like sending you a link for an IP67 switch ;)
A non water proof switch, is not gonna make it in the long haul.
Rubber cap or not.

Magura :)

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:19 pm 
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big hucker
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I'll take the link if there's an SPST on/off switch you like. I'm always looking for a better solution. Can I insert a 17mm diameter driver in the IP67 housing?

I agree it's not water proof. Since I don't night ride in the rain it isn't too much of a concern for me. ;)

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:47 pm 
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bad kitty!
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Just go have a look at RS Components. They have a plethora of that sort of stuff, and you can select based on IP classification.
For housing I'd look there as well.

It's not the cheapest place to shop, but they deliver withing 24 hrs., and have industrial quality.


Magura :)

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:50 pm 
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big hucker
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Nice, thank you. More parts to source from when building the v2.0 model. ;)

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:55 pm 
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bad kitty!
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marpilli wrote:
Nice, thank you. More parts to source from when building the v2.0 model. ;)


v2.0 would be a solid state solution, if I were to make it.
Solid state relays are cheap, and will allow the use of a nifty little pair of IP67 push buttons.

Magura :)

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 4:18 pm 
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big hucker
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Magura wrote:
marpilli wrote:
Nice, thank you. More parts to source from when building the v2.0 model. ;)


v2.0 would be a solid state solution, if I were to make it.
Solid state relays are cheap, and will allow the use of a nifty little pair of IP67 push buttons.

Magura :)


I agree. Being my first builds, I went with the inexpensive drivers. There are much better (programmable) drivers available. Now that I have an idea of what features I use I'll order something more fitting next time. That's how the learning process goes, right? :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 4:24 pm 
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bad kitty!
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marpilli wrote:
Magura wrote:
marpilli wrote:
Nice, thank you. More parts to source from when building the v2.0 model. ;)


v2.0 would be a solid state solution, if I were to make it.
Solid state relays are cheap, and will allow the use of a nifty little pair of IP67 push buttons.

Magura :)


I agree. Being my first builds, I went with the inexpensive drivers. There are much better (programmable) drivers available. Now that I have an idea of what features I use I'll order something more fitting next time. That's how the learning process goes, right? :lol:


It depends how you look at it.
I think I'd personally just build a driver that fits the bill, as that has become fairly simply nowadays.
Do the switching over a JFET if worried about power consumption, a MOSFET if price makes a difference, and call it a day.

ONSEMI offers plenty of good integrated drivers, and easily understandable application notes.


Magura :)

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